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Full Practical Guide: How To Grow & Care For Begonia x Tuberhybrida ?

Family: Begonia × Tuberhybrida is a member of the Begoniaceae family.

Bloom : From July through late October, there is a lot of bloom.

Grouth: Rapid expansion.

Light: Depending on the kind of light (some varieties are more resistant to the bright summer sun than others). Bright diffused light is preferable in interior settings.

Temperature: Depending on the variety, at least 10 ° C is required for proper blooming.

Watering should be done regularly throughout the summer to avoid overdrying. The substrate containing wintering tubers is sometimes watered throughout the dormant season.

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Air humidity: is high. Spraying is suggested for containerized plants.

Topdressing: Begonia x Tuberhybrida must be fed with potassium nitrate two or three times with a seven-day interval after planting to produce leaves, and then with a complete complex fertilizer with low nitrogen content.

Pinching is used to create side shoots on fast-growing imperious begonias.

Dormant season: Winter is the dormant period. The tubers should be stored in sand or peat at temperatures about 12 ° C. The resting phase lasts roughly three to three and a half months. To keep the tubers from drying out, the substrate is hydrated regularly.

Begonia x Tuberhybrida Plant Annually, after the dormant period, transfer Begonia x Tuberhybrida Plant.

Reproduction: Tubers, cuttings, and seeds are used for reproduction (less often).

Tuberous begonia (Begonia x Tuberhybrida) is a kind of tuberous begonia. Herbaceous plant with a tuber-rhizome that extends underground, succulent transparent stems, and a height of 20 to 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a regular, heart-shaped, asymmetrical pattern.

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Flowers may be simple, semi-double, or double, depending on the type. Except for tones of blue, blue, and violet, colors span from white through dark red, yellow, and orange. Flowers are heterosexual and monoecious, meaning they have male and female parts. On the same plant, there are flowers.

The flowers come in three different shapes: non-double, semi-double, and double. Tuberous begonia produces well-formed seeds with extra pollination, containing between 80 and 120 thousand seeds in a year. From May through November, the flowers bloom. Begonia loses its leaves in the winter and becomes dormant.

A. Woz suggested the name Begonia x Tuberhybrida since there existed a vast group of hybrids, as well as mutations from them, that were all related to the presence of a perennial tuber.

According to different accounts, 6 to 9 species were involved in the crosses, with the Bolivian begonia (B. bolimensis) being the most important. In 1869, the first hybrid cultivars were offered in England as blooming indoor plants produced in greenhouses. Louis Van Hutt, a Belgian, was the first to grow begonias outside.

The gigantic group’s varieties and hybrids are defined by the widest range of flower and petal shapes. Camellia, peony, and anemone are all examples of double flowers. Large Flower petals may be clipped or fringed, as well as strongly corrugated or joined (crisp shape) ( Fimbriata form ).

Ampelous Begonia x Tuberhybrida (B. pendula flore pleno) has a distinctive position, having been created by crossing several types of the multiflora group.

On slender drooping pedicels, they feature semi-double and double elegant Flowers. Their benefit isn’t only in appearance; they also endure the sun well and bloom early and abundantly. As a result, they’re often employed in flower beds.

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The tuberous begonia (Begonia x tube hybrid Voss) is a member of the Begonia genus ( Begonia L.). According to different sources, the genus has between 400 and 1000 wild Begoniaceae plant species found in tropical and subtropical parts of America, Africa, and Asia. Botanist Charles Plumiero initially brought Begonia x Tuberhybrida to Santo Domingo in 1690.

Plant Care for Begonia x Tuberhybrida

Depends on Growing Conditions

Begonia x Tuberhybrida has a distinct light to Begonia x Tuberhybrida ratio. Small-flowered plants flourish in direct sunlight, whereas large-flowered plants thrive in partial shade.

The ampel types all share the same trait: the smaller the bloom, the more comfortable the plant is in the sun. Tall begonias with enormous flowers, as well as ampelous begonias, should be planted in wind-protected areas to prevent delicate succulent stems from breaking.

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The ratio of various groups of begonia to tuberous temperature settings varies due to its complicated hybrid origin. If this plant is more thermophilic than the ever-flowering begonia (B. semperflorens), then the most heat-demanding varieties are large-flowered begonias and relatively cold-resistant – heterotic hybrids of the floribunda group, which bloom well at around 10 ° C, whereas large-flowered begonias weaken and the buds may crumble at this temperature.

Even minor frosts are too much for the Begonia x Tuberhybrida types. Cold winds are particularly damaging to plants, since they may blacken the margins of the leaves. Even hot, dry weather, on the other hand, does not encourage healthy development and blooming.

The roots cease developing and may die altogether in dry, hot soil. Flowers, leaves, and buds fall off, leaving an almost naked stem. Low atmospheric humidity affects Begonia x Tuberhybrida negatively.

Begonias are all moisture-loving plants, and if they don’t get enough, their leaves will turn dull and their buds will fall off. Excess moisture, on the other hand, causes numerous types of rot to emerge.

Plants, particularly dark-leaved species and hybrids, suffer more in the open wind. Only heterotic hybrids with medium-sized flowers are likely to thrive in open flower beds.

Begonia x Tuberhybrida in the Right Soil

Tuberous begonias are soil finicky, preferring loose, nutrient-rich, neutral soils. Heterotic hybrids are less moody and may thrive in more compact soil.
The optimum combination for mature plants is 3 parts deciduous soil, 1 part peat, and 1 part sand. To such a combination, 1 part rotten cow dung is recommended.

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Landing

Begonia x Tuberhybrida should be planted in open ground in early June. It is feasible to open shuttered loggias sooner — in mid-May. It must be covered if the temperature decreases.

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Purchased seedlings, especially blooming seedlings, may be maintained at home in a light window, but not in direct sunlight, as long as they are kept wet.

The seedlings of Begonia x Tuberhybrida must be gently removed from the container before planting, particularly if they are overgrown, since the juicy stem may easily break.

Seedlings are buried 1-1.5 cm lower in the ground than they were in a container. To ensure stability, tall seedlings and tuber-derived plants should be planted 2-2.5 cm deeper.

It is suggested that slowly dissolving potassium and phosphate fertilizers be used in the hole and that they be shed thoroughly. Tall kinds of begonias should be planted 30-35 cm apart in flower beds, while compact hybrids should be planted 25-30 cm apart. They are planted every 10-15 cm in pots, particularly aggressive forms.

Care for Begonia x Tuberhybrida

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Proper watering is the most important aspect of care for Begonia x Tuberhybrida. Water it early in the morning, but not with cold water, to keep it blossoming in hot, dry weather.

Burns occur on the leaves as a result of regular watering, and the leaves eventually fall off. The roots will die if you irrigate hot soil with cold water.

Plants must be treated with growth chemicals to boost their resilience to the heat when it arrives (humate, epin, zircon).

Not only should begonias in pots be watered, but they should also be sprayed with warm water in the morning and evening.

After planting, Begonia x Tuberhybrida should be fed two or three times with a seven-day interval with potassium nitrate, followed by a complete complex fertilizer with low nitrogen content. Excess nitrogen causes plants to stretch and leads to their deterioration in rainy conditions.

Keep the soil loose and weeds out until the plants develop.

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Large begonias on tall stems Flowers should be tethered to tiny pegs to avoid breaking in the wind or during heavy rains.

Fast-growing ampelous begonias are pinched to create side branches in pots. Furthermore, to prevent the shoots from rotting due to strong thickness, it is advised that they be distributed throughout the container or that the excess and weak ones be removed.

Tuber reproduction, overwintering

Before frost arrives at the end of August, you must decide whether to keep the Begonia x Tuberhybrida at home for further blooming or dig it up to harvest the tubers.

The plants are transferred into a pot in the first example, with the root system preserved if feasible. They are pulled out with the biggest possible lump and set for drying in a well-ventilated shaded spot shielded from rain in the second step, without cutting off the stem and leaves.

The leaves gradually dry out during a short fall day, and the nutrients from them enter the tuber. Within a month, a big tuber has developed. Flowers are also plucked from plants in industrial culture at the time of bulk blossoming.

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The Begonia x Tuberhybrida should be protected from frost overnight at the conclusion of the growth season using paper, gauze, or plastic wrap. Begonia x Tuberhybrida enters a latent condition after blooming.

Watering is minimized during this time, and the plants are moved to a dark location. The aerial section of the begonia dies off after around 1–1.5 months, and the tuber is kept in the ground for another 2-3 weeks.

The tubers are then dug out and put in a box filled with sand or peat. To keep the tubers from drying out, the substrate in which they are housed is gently wet from time to time.

The tuber box is maintained in a cold environment with a temperature of 12-14 degrees Celsius. Tubers are retrieved from the sand and put in pots with soil 2-3 months before being planted in balcony boxes.

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There is a top and a bottom to the tubers. There are buds that appear like bumps and lumps on the top half, which is flatter or concave. The bottom half is smoother and somewhat convex, and after planting, roots will develop on it.

Temperatures of 22-24 ° C and frequent watering are ideal for tuber germination. Old tubers may be sliced into 2–4 pieces with 3–4 buds in each piece. It’s a good idea to dust the cuts with charcoal powder.

When purchasing tubers, it’s important to consider their size and look. The diameter should be at least 3 cm; it is significantly smaller in ampelous small-flowered begonias. The tops of well-peeled tubers should be smooth and solid.

Reproduction of seeds

Tuberhybrida Begonia seeds are relatively tiny. Flowers are intentionally pollinated to get them, with pollen from male Flowers being applied to the pistils of female Flowers using a brush.

Begonia seeds should be put in leafy soil in December-January and not sprinkled with dirt to produce flowering begonias in the summer.
To keep the top layer of the substrate from drying out, the dishes containing the planted seeds are carefully covered with glass.

Seed germination is best when the temperature is between 22 and 25 degrees Celsius. The ground gets wet on a regular basis. To avoid excess moisture and mold, the glass should be opened from time to time. In 14-16 days, seedlings emerge.

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They plunge into deciduous soil in the state of two cotyledon leaves at a distance of 2 x 2 cm at a temperature of 20-22 ° C, then cover with glass for 2-3 days. After the leaves have closed, a second pick is made at a distance of 4 x 5 cm, followed by a third pick at a distance of 6 x 7 cm.

2 parts deciduous, 1 part sod land and peat, and 0.5 parts sand make up the soil combination for the second and third choices (pH of the mixture is 6-6.5).

The begonias are planted in 11-13-centimeter pots with a lump of earth after the third pick, when the leaves have closed, adding 1 part deciduous soil, a little bone meal, and pounded dry cow dung to the mixture.
After planting, give it plenty of water and keep it in the shade.

Begonias are often tall and unsteady. To prevent this, the plants are sprayed with a growth regulator (retardant) – chlorocholine chloride (0.5 percent solution, 20-30 ml per plant) – during the creation of 5 leaves. The plants grow into a compact, low shrub with many flowers under its influence.

After the spring frosts have passed, young plants are planted in balcony boxes at a spacing of 20 cm.

Plants bloom 135–150 days after planting with seed reproduction.

Propagate Begonia × Tuberhybrida by cuttings

Begonia x Tuberhybrida cuttings may be used to propagate the plant.The apical section of the stem 6–10 cm tall with numerous leaves is taken off when reproducing Begonia x Tuberhybrida via cuttings from well-developed plants.

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The lowest leaves on the cut cuttings are removed, and the cut site is dusted with charcoal powder before being planted in sand, watered, and covered with a glass container.

To prevent excessive moisture, the jar must be raised from time to time. In around 2–3 weeks, the cutting takes root. It is then replanted into nutrient-rich soil.

The benefit of propagation by cuttings overd propagation is that the plant acquired keeps all of the mother plant’s traits.

The Begonia x Tuberhybrida is cultivated indoors.

Begonia x Tuberhybrida, purchased as seedlings in a container, blooms in the summer under a sunny window but not in direct sunlight. The pot will offer normal hydration for development and blooming if it is put in soil or peat and watered gently.

It expands out and loses its beautiful appeal if the Begonia x Tuberhybrida is shaded or put on the northern windows unduly.

Blooming begonias in boxes on a shaded balcony or on the balcony floor is much nicer. Plants in pots and boxes need full-complex fertilizer feedings on a regular basis. Begonia x Tuberhybrida produced from tubers feels better and blooms more abundantly in such circumstances.

Problems that may arise

Gray rot and powdery mildew may develop both inside and out. Powdery mildew grows in hot, humid environments. Gray rot is a kind of rot that is more frequent in cold, wet conditions.

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In both circumstances, infected leaves must be removed and ventilation increased. The plant should be treated with specific preparations if it has been severely damaged.

A lack of light and nutrients, or a container that is too tight, has stretched the plant.

Powdery mildew attacks the earthen soil whether it is dry or wet.

Gray mold may form in chilly, moist circumstances, necessitating more ventilation.

When leaves are affected by leaf rot, plaque and brown patches form on them (you need to remove the damaged parts and treat the plant with a fungicide solution).

When exposed to water, excessively moist and cold substances may induce root rot and leaf blight.

When there is a dearth of light, the leaves become yellow.

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The brown, paper-like margins of the leaves suggest that the plant is exposed to dry air or direct sunshine.

Plant leaves dry out and curl when the temperature is too high and the humidity is too low.

Leaves may fall off under low light (if the shoot is excessively stretched), dry air (if the leaves are withered), or excess wetness (if the leaves have begun to droop).

Flower buds dry out when there is too much dry air, not enough moisture, or unexpected temperature changes.

Buds may fall off if the air humidity is inadequate.

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